Sony Alpha 7R IV test: a first look
Sony ILCE-7RM4 Feature Overview Sony Alpha 7R IV became the first serial full-frame camera to break through the psychological barrier of 50 megapixels. The camera took this height with a…

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VHS video cassettes and VCRs designed for playing them first appeared on the market in 1976 and successfully outlived Sony Betamax and Video 2000 technologies. In the 1990s and 2000s…

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Now let's talk about some parameters of digital video cameras that can still be used as selection criteria. Number of CCD Perhaps this is the parameter, at a glance at…

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What to buy in the camera first of all, what can be postponed for later?

Suppose the cost of the camera of your dreams turned out to be several thousand rubles less than you planned to spend. In this case, you are tempted to buy some additions and accessories for the camera, which later can diversify your life. First of all, I can advise two things:

Normal flash drive
A new camera is usually not equipped with a USB flash drive, or its volume is too small for everyday use. The choice of flash cards for cameras is huge, they differ in format, volume, speed and price. By format – everything is clear. If your camera works with SD (and its variants SDHC, SDXC), then you need to choose from them.

How much flash drive to choose? It all depends on the tasks. If this is shooting, then for most modern cameras, a 32 gigabyte flash drive is more than enough – this capacity is enough to accommodate several thousand frames in Jpeg format and about 1000-1500 in RAW format (at a resolution of 20-25 megapixels). For video shooting, it is better to purchase a larger flash drive – 64, 128, 256 gigabytes. Depending on the resolution of the video, the flash drive consumption will be different. It is also important to consider the maximum amount of flash drive supported by the camera.

As for speed – in principle, for shooting in Jpeg with single shots, there is not much difference, you can buy the cheapest flash drive. But still this does not eliminate the need to have a margin of speed – it will come in handy when shooting in RAW (especially serial), shooting high-resolution video. In the end, the more megapixels the camera has, the more demanding is the speed of the flash drive.

Depending on the speed of data exchange, the maximum size and maximum file size, flash drives are divided into many classes and subclasses. I will talk about this in one of the following articles. While the principle is this, we select a flash drive with a value slightly higher than average (for its volume).

Bag for the camera
Here the requirements are:

1. The bag should contain the camera in full layout – along with a charger, spare flash drives, a place for an additional lens (if the purchase is foreseen)

2. The camera should be well fixed (this is achieved using internal partitions with Velcro), but at the same time it should not be close to the size – if you need to make an effort to fasten the bag, we discard this option. The same as with shoes.

3. The inner coating should not be brushed. Usually, this is done by the cheapest bags, lined with low-quality material from the inside, from which individual hairs separate from natural wear. These hairs can then be in the most unexpected places, including on a camera matrix with non-replaceable optics (incredible, but true!)

How should the camera be in the bag? Lens down, lens up or on your side? There is no consensus on this. Personally, I like the lens down more – it’s more convenient to remove the camera from the bag. There is still an argument in this favor, that with this camera position less dust settles on the matrix. A soft lodgement for the carcass is formed from soft inserts; there is a small gap under the lens below. On the sides there are “compartments” for spare batteries and a second lens.

It is desirable that the bag had a hood – a waterproof cloak that is pulled out of a special pocket and closes the bag from the rain.

I remember the author of some clever book about photography recommended photographing the landscape only from a tripod, even in the afternoon. Personally, I find this advice outdated. Modern cameras have a very high working ISO to take pictures from morning to evening. A tripod is really only needed when shooting at night. It’s definitely not necessary to buy it right away with the camera!

Protective filter
The protective filter is a glass that covers the front lens of the lens from dust, splashes, fingerprints. If the camera falls, it protects the front lens from chips and cracks. In principle, the thing is useful, but there is one thing … Cheap protective filters almost always reduce the contrast of the picture, especially when shooting against a light source, can cause additional glare. Expensive filters are devoid of these shortcomings, but their cost may exceed the cost of a “whale” lens.

Personally, my opinion is that if you buy a protective filter, it’s good and expensive. Protecting an expensive filter with a cheap lens makes no sense. A camera crash is a rare occurrence, and a kit for cleaning optics can be purchased from fingerprints – it will be much cheaper.

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